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Since I am using solid wood panels I need to allow for expansion inside the groove. I have found that space balls work well but require a little practice (good luck)...
Once I have the 1/2" panels cut to size it is time to route the profile. With a 3/8" x 1/4" rabbit bit in the router table I run the panels upside down against the bearing to achieve the desired cut. Fairly straight forward, but just be careful not to run the panels too fast as tear-out will occur.
With solid wood panels it only requires the slightest warp in the stile or the panel to make the fit too tight. This will happen, trust me, but with a rabbit plane and/or the table saw set up to barely take off a 1/64"of the panel and a little time and patience you will achieve a nice snug fit (it is worth the time). On the other hand, if you glue the doors up with force in time they will split and warp
I like to sand the panels before glue, up to 150 grit with a palm sander. Before glueing the doors it is nice to have a clean area to operate. I like to have a couple clean cloths, some water, a mallet and block, and a chisel on hand while glueing and clamping. The water and rags are obviously for excess glue clean up, necessary for getting rid of the glue marks in and on the wood. Since my doors are 13/16" in thickness i like to give each door two hours in clamps......plenty of time and at least 60 degrees or the glue gets a little gloppy. Have fun.
After the glue has dried and doors are out of the clamps it is sanding time (my least favorite step). I sand the backs with 150 grit and then 220 grit using a palm sander. Before I sand the front side it is off to the drill press to drill the 35mm cup holes for the door hinges.
On the front side I do a quick sand with 150 grit using the palm sander and then it is all done by hand. First with 150 and then a thorough hand sand using 220 grit, being careful not to leave scratch marks on opposing grain directions.
This is a panel for under the raised bar counter.
I usually make these panels like the doors with groove and tennons. But because thickness was an issue I am only making the panel a total of 1/2" thickness, so I chose to use butt joints. Once I have the panel all glued up I use the same rabbit bit and run the panel upside down. Take it SLOW.
Instead of solid wood panels I am using a 1/4" MDF (medium density fiberboard) cored veneer. The panel inserts are too big for 1/4" solid wood, but since the rabbit bit leaves rounded edges and the back won't be seen I just shape the corners to fit by hand. Again I sand the insert panels before glue-up.
is it time for staining yet..................
